Category: Oris Watches
Oris Aquis Date 41.5mm with Watermelon Dials
Summer is in the air, and the holiday season is just around the corner. As a brand that has never been shy of colour, Oris proposes two watermelon-coloured models for its versatile Aquis Date 41.5mm dive watch. Perfect for outdoor activities but smart enough to wear daily, the Oris Aquis Date collection was recently refreshed. The design tweaks applied to the Oris Aquis Date collection introduced at Watches & Wonders earlier this year result in a more refined profile and a more comfortable wearer experience.
While blue, green and black dials have been the predominant colours of the brand’s Aquis Date collection since its launch in 2011, Oris Aquis Date stretched the colour palette with an eye-popping cherry red version in 2021 along with a multi-coloured mottled upcycled plastic dial. A year later, the Aquis Date 36.5mm appeared with colourful mother-of-pearl dials in tandem with the Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Five bronze trilogy with shocking pink, green and baby blue dials.
For summer 2024, Oris adopts the colour palette of juicy watermelons, the fruit we all associate with the hot summer months. Featuring watermelon green or red sunray-brushed dials, the impact of the colour is accentuated by the white ceramic bezels with green or red markings. The functional unidirectional rotating bezels benefit from the recent design upgrade and have been reproportioned. The shaper outline of the luminescent Alpha hour and minute hands and shield-shaped hour markers also correspond to the aesthetic tweaks. However, one of the most significant design changes regarding the date window has not been incorporated here. Unlike the new Aquis 41.5mm models with date apertures matching the dial colour, these summer models have white backgrounds. The 300m water-resistant case flaunts its slightly slimmer profile of 12.9mm (formerly 13.3mm), shorter and more ergonomic lugs and tapering crown guards. Brushed and polished surfaces highlight the case’s construction, and the new stainless steel bracelet with redesigned links, broader brushed central links and a more tapering profile enhances comfort. Exposed through mineral glass caseback is Oris Aquis Date 733 calibre (Sellita SW200-1 base) with its signature red rotor. Beating at a frequency of 28,800vph, this automatic movement delivers a moderate power reserve of 38 hours. However, the movement is equipped with a stop-seconds device for precision time setting.
Oris Divers Sixty-Five 40 Social Club Edition
There’s a new Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph on the market today and – to the delight of many – it’s been downsized to 40mm in diameter.
Oris debuted the non-limited edition Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph all the way back in 2019. The watch had a mix of steel and bronze and played into the popular vintage-inspired feel of the time. Since then the brand has been relatively quiet with the line. The feedback from watch lovers seemed to be that despite an attractive package, the watch – at 43mm wide and around 16mm thick – was just a bit too big.
Instead of leaning into a fully vintage aesthetic with the gilt/bronze accents and bezel, the new Divers Sixty-Five chronograph leans slightly more modern (within the 1965-inspired framework) with an all-black and white color palette. The case is fully stainless steel with a mix of brushed and polished edges and can come with a faux-riveted bracelet or Cervo Volante deer leather strap. Inside is the same self-winding Oris 771 movement – based on the Sellita SW 510 – that was in the last release, with 48 hours of power reserve. That goes to show you that just because a watch is a certain size, doesn’t mean that the movement is always a limiting factor to shrink it.
Nearly every Oris Divers Sixty-Five 40 release convinces me to switch my pick for my favorite line of its watches. A new Aquis reminds me how solid the Aquis is. A new Big Crown reminds me of classic Oris Styling. This new Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph hits the same note. Classic, simple, solid, legible – everything you’d expect from Oris.
As ever, I’m going to reserve my final judgment on fit and value for when I see the watch in person. Generally, I find it rare that Oris has any missteps, but I don’t think that the original Divers Sixty-Five chronograph was a standout success for the brand. My gut reaction is that this new edition is still pretty thick with a domed caseback, but shrinking the case width-wise will hopefully lead to a watch that feels and looks smaller on the wrist.
Oris Big Crown ProPilot Timer GMT
The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Timer GMT is a tool watch designed with the professional pilot in mind. Great legibility, a 24-hour GMT hand, and a timing bezel round out a solid set of features that’ll suit you both in the air and on the ground. This year’s model is more of a subtle upgrade than a complete overhaul, but the few changes that were made result in an even better watch.
It’s refreshing to see a brand hone one of their existing models to make it better rather than feel pressured to completely overhaul it. While the case is still a robust 44mm wide, Oris has slimmed down the height of the watch so it sits better on the wrist. The strap now features Oris’s “LIFT” lock system, which looks and performs similarly to the seatbelt on an airplane. It’s a fun and functional detail that makes a lot of sense on a pilots watch.
The carryover features from the previous edition are nothing to gloss over. A double-domed sapphire crystal protects the large and legible black dial. Applied numerals at each hour rise slightly off the dial for a refined aesthetic that remains legible. One of my favorite design details that Oris Big Crown ProPilot Timer GMT incorporates into their watches is the angular ridges around the bezel. It’s like a coin edge, but at a slant. On the ProPilot, the ridges run around the outside of the 60-minute, bi-directional timing bezel, a new and fantastic feature, which make for a sturdy grip and a slightly aggressive appearance.
Inside the watch, you’ll find Oris’s 748 base movement that powers center hands for the hours, minutes, and GMT and the running seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock. The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Timer GMT hand is thinner and less prominent than the hours and minutes hand, but it’s highlighted with a red triangle at the tip. 100 meters of water resistance is more than enough for everyday exposure to water, as well as a casual swim. Between the timing bezel and GMT hand, you’re able to track two timezones and time elapsed (up to an hour) at the same time. Overall, it’s a handsome and functional pilot watch that both professional pilots and the everyman will appreciate
The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Timer GMT is available on three different strap options. There’s a premium brown leather strap, stainless bracelet with folding clasp, and a textile strap made from Ventile. For me, the Ventile is the standout option. The olive green strap is an excellent complement to the black and steel watch, especially with the freshly updated clasp design. Keep an eye out for the ProPilot at a retailer near you starting in June.
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date 40
Following the current trend, Oris has encased its design icon, the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date, in warm bronze — not only the case, but the bezel, the namesake big crown and even the dial. In this feature from our October 2020 issue, we tested the watch in real-life situations.
Bronze, a metallic compound based on a minimum of 60 percent copper, is one of the first alloys to be created and used by humans. These days it’s a popular material for watch cases, and just about every brand has bronze models in its portfolio.
But admittedly, you have to like how this material changes color to appreciate it. Bronze reacts when exposed to air. This causes its surface to oxidize over time but has no effect on the properties of the material such as durability and resistance to corrosion. The color change simply marks the passing of time. What other material could be better suited for products that reflect time’s passage? Especially when it’s a timepiece like the Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date, our test watch, which has a design that alludes to its past.
In 1938, Oris introduced a watch with an oversized crown that could be operated by pilots wearing gloves. It also featured large Arabic numerals and arrow-shaped markers to enhance legibility, a fluted crown and an arrow-shaped hand with a red tip to indicate the date. The Big Crown Pointer Date watch became an established part of the Oris history and was never taken out of production. For more than 80 years, it survived all the ups and downs, social upheavals, numerous trends and fads, and has been regarded as a trademark of the Oris brand. In fact, without this timelessly beautiful timepiece, Oris may not have achieved its current reputation as a high-quality, independent Swiss watch brand.
The Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date also played an important role in the revival of Oris following the Quartz Crisis in the late 1980s and the company’s decision at that time to build only mechanical watches in the future. The striking timepiece had a history and a purpose, and it kindles strong emotions both then and now.
Just about everything about this watch is rooted in its past – the material, the shape of the crystal and its date design. It’s an authentic Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date in every way.
The solid bronze dial is chemically treated and coated with a transparent matte varnish so that it doesn’t oxidize like the case. During our real-life test that spanned several months, the case transformed dramatically as its color changed from shiny golden to dark brown (see above), giving the watch a more rustic look and its own unique patina. And even though it doesn’t change over time, the dial finish makes each watch one-of-a-kind.
Only minor elements of the original model from 1938 have undergone changes. A complete hour track with Arabic numerals has replaced the arrow-shaped markers. Even though the minutes track looks vintage, it was not yet a part of the first Big Crown Pointer Date model. The small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, resulting from the historical “Pointer” Caliber 373 from 1938, became a central sweep seconds in the Caliber 754, which is based on the Sellita SW200-1. The characteristic “Pointer Date” hand is still the same as in the original 1938 Oris design. Its triangular tip with curved inner side nicely frames the date numerals arranged around the edge of the dial, which are somewhat smaller than they were on the original. The vintage-look cathedral hour and minutes hands dominate the dial face and are generously filled with luminous material. Under dark conditions, they glow a bright green along with the 12 hour markers inside the minutes track. The numerals glow somewhat weaker. The time is very easy to read under all conditions thanks to the bright luminescence at night and the authentic vintage design of the dial by day.
The case measures 40 mm across with a height of 12 mm and water resistance of 5 bar (50 meters). The domed crystal, grooved bezel and sloping curves of the midsection of the case underscore the historical appeal of the watch and give the iconic timepiece a convincing authenticity. Downward sloping lugs and the supple leather strap provide great wearing comfort. Like the bronze case, the strap rather quickly shows signs of wear — but this is surely an intentional part of the design. Oris has equipped the lugs with easily accessible levers that make the strap easy to remove and replace. The simple yet sturdy solid bronze pin buckle matches the overall style of the watch.
Simply said, the namesake “Big Crown,” originally designed with pilots in mind, is easy to use. The generous size and deep grooves make it easy to grasp, release from its screw-down locked position, and pull out for different operations of the movement, the Sellita-based Oris automatic Caliber 754 with pointer date, which begins to advance gradually about one-half hour before midnight and then jumps to the next position exactly at midnight. It works perfectly. The proportions of the hands are also perfect, as is the return of the crown to its locked position. Rate results are acceptable, ranging between +4 and +6 seconds per day. The automatic movement, which is visible through the transparent screw-down caseback, meets the manufacturer’s industrial standard, and shows its striking red oscillating weight. For $2,100, it’s the real deal.
Oris Brings Back The Bronze For Its Latest Pointer Date Limited Edition
I won’t pretend to understand cricket, except to say I know enough to realize that it’s a sport with a reach that’s unfathomably large to a simple American such as myself. Today, Oris is introducing the Father Time Limited Edition, a collaboration between the Holstein brand and its partner, Marylebone Cricket Club. The new limited edition is much like the Oris Pointer Date we know and love, featuring a 40mm bronze case, but updated with a clean white dial.
The story starts at Lord’s Cricket Ground in London, where a weathervane stands high atop a clock tower. On top of that weathervane sits Father Time, stooping over cricket stumps and watching over the sporting affair. Father Time was given to Marylebone in 1926, and he’s stood atop the grounds ever since, becoming an instantly recognizable figure at one of the most important cricket clubs in the world.
The symbolism of the figure derives from Law 12(3) of the Laws of Cricket: “After the call of Time, the bails shall be removed from both wickets.” So, there’s Father Time, removing the bails from the wickets above Lord’s.
As for the watch itself: It’s a 40mm Oris Pointer Date cast in bronze. It comes on a seven-link bronze bracelet and an additional deer leather strap with bronze buckle (note the deer bug branded on the inside with antlers…like a deer). There are printed Arabic numerals underneath the domed sapphire crystal, with Super-LuminNova on the hands and outer date track. There’s a stainless steel caseback engraved with Father Time, all providing 50 meters of water resistance. The Oris Pointer Date Limited Edition is powered by the Oris 754, a Sellita-based automatic caliber with 38 hours of power reserve.
The Oris Big Crown has been around since 1938, and it’s for good reason – the design just works. I love the model in bronze, too (I also love the Divers Sixty-Five in bronze). I’ve seen these age in all kinds of ways, from chic to downright gnarly (the guy who wore this watch said he surfed with it every day).
The warmth of bronze seems to work especially well with the white dial – Oris says the dial is simply white but I can’t help but see a tint of cricket-bat brown because of the bronze. The “Father Time” branding is simple and discreet, only on the caseback.
Like I said, I’m not a cricket guy, but if executed nicely, I could’ve gone for a discreet Father Time integrated in the dial. Because, cricket player or not, he comes for us all. Since Oris also makes the bronze Pointer Date in 36mm, I wouldn’t have minded seeing a portion of the 1,926 pieces produced at the smaller diameter, if only because I prefer the smaller size, and this might be my favorite dial for the bronze Pointer Date yet.
Oris Divers Sixty-Five 38 Cotton Candy Sepia
Swiss watchmaker Oris launches their popular patina-pending Divers Sixty-Five Bronze watch in a surprisingly classic, yet entirely new dial colour. The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date Cotton Candy Sepia watch presents its centrepiece in tobacco-inspired black and with a rubber strap option to match.
Colourful watch dials are an increasing trend in the industry right now, there’s no denying it, but there will always be room for those classic black, silver and blue displays. Oris was one of the first luxury watch brands step box in terms of dial colours with their pastel-decorated Cotton Candy models launched back in 2021.
We reviewed the original Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date Cotton Candy collection in plenty of detail here. It was launched in the midst of the pandemic and was a welcome break from the bleak news of the time, uniquely combining bronze cases with dials of pink, mint green and pastel blue. They are a true representation of the fun and playful side of Oris.
The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date Cotton Candy collection has grown over the last couple of years, adding new Perlon straps to the mix as well as cases in classic stainless steel. For the first time however, Oris has combined the bronze Sixty-Five case with a traditional black dial. The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date Cotton Candy Sepia watch still has a strong visual impact, but one certainly more warranted to those with a love of classic watch design.
As with previous editions, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date Cotton Candy Sepia watch comes with a 38mm wide bronze case which will naturally patinate over time as the metal reacts with moisture and oxygen in the air and skin. The case will eventually develop a unique finish completely bespoke to the wearer’s experience. Almost the entirety of the case is engineered from bronze, including the screw in security crown and uni-directional rotating bezel with diver’s scale in relief. Only the case back is kept conventional in stainless steel.
Beneath domed sapphire crystal glass, the new black dial colour is joined by golden-edged hands and hour markers generously filled with off-white Superluminova. In the dark, the lume glows green. The retro, rounded indices and shield-shaped 12 o’clock marker remain in place as does the Oris logo finished in its own rusty bronze hue. To match with its new dial, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date Cotton Candy Sepia watch comes with a black rubber strap or a full bronze three-row link bracelet.
For the movement, Oris elects their familiar time-and-date Oris calibre 733. The automatic winding movement places the date in a small, blacked out aperture at 6 o’clock and provides a 38-hour power reserve and a frequency of 28,800vph. The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date Cotton Candy Sepia watch is available November 2023, retailing for CHF 2’750 on the bronze bracelet and CHF 2’450 on the rubber strap.
We can’t help but think there are plenty of straps in our own collection that would look rather fitting on the new Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date Cotton Candy Sepia watch too. Our Vintage Tropical Style FKM Rubber strap instantly comes to mind and would nicely enhance the vintage diver’s watch aesthetic all while providing a reliable, water-resistant companion for your own water-based adventures. Our Black & Beige Military Nylon strap would also make a smart addition, with the black and beige stripes of the strap pairing nicely with the bronze and black attire of the watch.
Replica Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400
Grail watches are supposed to embody the best. “Best”, however, is a subjective term. That’s why everyone’s grail is different. What I consider best for me is a watch that doesn’t require careful handling. My best is a watch that can keep up with me in all that I do. Beyond that, I want the ultimate expression of capability in specs and design, as well as efficiency of material and cost. Thus, as far as my judgment is concerned, I want an Oris. And if I’m buying tomorrow, I want an Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400.
If my grail is a watch, the tower that keeps it is Oris, and I admit I’m more enamored with the tower than the various potential grails within. Oris has spoiled me these past couple of years, and I’m almost content with holding off to see what else the brand has up its sleeve (Caliber 402, anyone?). But if we’re all naming our grails (and we are), it’s easy enough for me to point to mine — the 41.5mm Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 in blue.
For any of you keeping up with my most recent articles, there may be an exasperated “of course” and a throwing up of hands. Seriously, how many consecutive articles on Oris can I write? But this is a pre-meditated ending to a trilogy of sorts exhibiting Oris as I’ve come to know it. All these articles played a part in building my case. Everyone else took one article to announce their grail. Me? I took three. I’ll argue that it’s compensation (or an extended pitch) for such a humble grail.
Regardless of whether you read the article on Oris’s sustainability or the argument I made for the watch Oris is missing to make it the best, I expect most everyone can agree that sub-$10K is hardly grail territory. Grails are supposed to be an almost unattainable pinnacle of all that is sacred (in horology). They are what inspire knights (or us watch nerds) to embark on quests to attain them. But, as in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, the holy grail need not be ornate. In my case (as for Dr. Jones — spoiler alert), the grail is humble, plain, and full of piety. But it didn’t use to be that way.
I started my watch journey drooling over the Omega Speedmaster — no wonder I ended up at Fratello. Then I branched out to Rolex, Patek, and Vacheron Constantin. My head was on a swivel, daydreaming about one watch or the next. For a minute, I thought I wanted one of VC’s Métiers d’Art — the Les Aérostiers, the hot air balloon watch. A worthy choice, seeing that it costs over $100K. Choosing a grail at this echelon took on a form of escapism. If I were a person that owned that watch (dealer’s choice), I wouldn’t be in the situation I was — underpaid, overworked, and unfulfilled. Well, spending a luxury car’s amount of money on a watch doesn’t solve problems like that.
Instead, I transitioned out of the situations making me so miserable, and I continued window shopping for watches. But I was looking less at watches that took me out of my reality, and instead began mentally trying on watches that I saw accompanying me from where I actually was. That’s when I really started having fun. And I found that there is “the best” in regards to craftsmanship, materials, and pedigree, and best as far as how good a fit it is for me. Now entered into the game all manner of watches from Seiko, Sinn, and the like. That’s when Oris became a serious contender.
Now there’s a difference between a watch that’ll work for me right now and a watch that’ll work for me from now on. I’ve purchased a couple of in-a-pinch watches that aren’t leaving my collection any time soon. Those aren’t grail watches, at least not to me. It’s hard to game out “until death do us part”, but people get married all the time. If I could prepare for making that decision, buying a watch to wear forever is a piece of cake. And Oris — in its product specs and design and my interpretation of what it stands for as a brand — is a watch I can wear forever.
Because when looking for “the one”, it’s almost all a specs game for me. I had Oris on my radar for years, but the release of the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 changed everything. With the five-day power reserve, 10-year service interval, and 10-year warranty, Oris stepped to the conceivable end of what’s possible in a workhorse mechanical movement. This snapshot in horological history in and of itself is almost reason enough for me to choose the Oris Aquis Calibre 400, but the reduced frequency of repair added an element of economy that sweetens the deal.
If I’m going to be marrying this watch, I want to have an idea of what to expect. A 10-year warranty is an unprecedented assurance in a watch. I don’t know where I’ll be in 10 years — it seems far away enough to be a dream. But I expect I’ll still be interested in watches and enjoying the outdoors. That’s a win for the Aquis Calibre 400 with the above-mentioned specs and 300 meters of water resistance.
My purchase and servicing of an Oris Aquis is an investment in the company as well. Yes, financially, but also as a brand and all the minutiae that comprise it. I’m going to have the watch on my wrist. It will undoubtedly be representing something about myself, whether I like it or not (I do). It’s all that Oris is doing on the whole — environmentally, socially, technically — that sells me on any particular watch. I love what Oris has done, and I’m looking forward to seeing what it will do in the future.
Therein lies the predicament. If I’m choosing today, my grail watch is the Aquis Date Calibre 400. Its design appeals to me, of course. More importantly, it is a slice in Oris’s and the greater watch industry’s history marking the 10-year repair standard milestone (I know that the 41.5mm Calibre 400 wasn’t the very first). But Oris is just ramping up, and I think there’s a lot around the corner to look forward to. Honestly, I could buy the Aquis now and not beat myself up if and when Oris releases the next 400 variant. Like marriage, I’ll make my commitment and then not look too closely at anything else. I have experiences to live and stories to make… with the watch. I’m a simple man (obviously), and besides, there isn’t much that Oris could do that would make me want something more than a Calibre 400. There’s simply not anything more that I need.
That’s not to say I won’t buy another watch ever again. As much as I entertain the notion of a one-watch collection, which my grail would comprise, I’m not letting go of the watches I already have without good reason. I’m also open to purchasing more watches in the future. The role of the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 as a grail is to become “the one” for me — a watch that encompasses all of my serious interests in watches. After that, I can play. I can explore novelties, funky fashion pieces, and yes, I might even get a Speedmaster. But I will do so resting assured that I’ve achieved my grail.
And you know what? The secret is that grails change. The (usually) unattainable nature of them makes that an easy adjustment to make. Once attained, however, it becomes a different matter. But if I purchase the Aquis and my grail does change, at least I will have had the opportunity to have my grail. That’s more than most knights can claim.
OrisHölstein Edition 2022
To mark their birthday on 1 June, Oris introduces the Oris Hölstein Edition 2022, a watch that revives an icon, the Full Steel. It captures the spirit of the 1990s, and a groundbreaking mechanical movement – Oris Hölstein Edition 2022.
Oris was founded in 1904 in the Swiss village of Hölstein, not far from Basel, but a long way from watchmaking’s traditional heartland. It’s still shaping who we are today
Whether we like it or not, we’re shaped by where we come from. The country and city, town or village where we’re born will always be part of us. Oris came into being on 1 June 1904 in the remote Swiss village of Hölstein. For exactly 118 years, this beautiful little place has been shaping us, guiding us, even.
How? To understand the impact Hölstein has on us today, we have to go back to our founding year. Oris was the vision of two brave, pioneering watchmakers from Le Locle, deep in the French-speaking heartland of Swiss watchmaking. Their concept was to embrace the industrial practices that by then were fuelling the mighty Swiss German-speaking city of Basel. By bringing their watchmaking skills and romantic sensibilities together with state-of-the-art, highly efficient manufacturing, they believed they would be able to deliver high-quality Swiss Made watches to the world citizens of the day.
This was an unconventional step. Oris, named after a nearby brook, had a path of its own. It would go its own way.
There was more to it. Hölstein was surrounded by the Waldenburg Valley, a spectacularly beautiful area. Its people would come to work at Oris, and those who came from Basel and beyond would soon come to appreciate its power to inspire them.
Today, 118 years on, our founder’s vision remains; the valley continues to inspire us (and motivate our ambitious sustainability strategy); and our factory is still on the same site. All here in Hölstein. Our home. For the third year, we celebrate it with a limited edition watch for the global Oris community.
Here is the new Oris Hölstein Edition 2022 Full Steel Revival watch, Oris’ latest annual special edition. Like the last ones, this was launched at the start of June to mark the brand’s anniversary (founded on the 1st of June 1904). In 2020, we saw a solid bronze Oris chronograph with a bronze bracelet. 2021 brought us a special grey version of the Big Crown Pointer Date.
The new watch for 2022 goes a little further than re-colouring an existing model from the range and instead revives a watch Oris used to make in the 1990s. First launched in 1998, which incidentally is the year I “launched” too, the Full Steel Worldtimer was the most complex watch Oris made a
Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400
Meet the new Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400. It’s made of titanium and comes with a grey, blue, or salmon dial. Inside is the Oris Calibre 400. When the in-house Oris caliber 400 was introduced in June of 2021, it set a new standard for Oris, and on a larger scale, the industry. It was made clear that it was meant to be both accessible and reliable. With a 120-hour power reserve, anti-magnetic properties, and 10-year service intervals, it quickly raised the bar for affordable in-house calibers. It debuted in the Aquis, a perfect match for the no-frills, old faithful ideology of the new movement.
Prior to the Caliber 400, the only other Oris caliber that was developed in-house was the radical Calibre 115. It was built as a skeleton movement (meaning material wasn’t ever removed, it was manufactured with skeletonized bridges and mainplate), featured a whopping ten-day power reserve with a non-linear power indicator, and a new-to-Oris alloy for the mainspring. Take one look at Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 and it’s clear that Oris is a manufacturer that can hang with the best of ’em when it comes to developing their own intellectual property.
So where does the Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 fit into the picture? Somewhere right in the middle, in the sweet spot. It’s fashioned from tech-forward titanium that wears sandblasted and satinized finishes, but its minimalist dial design is reserved and stately, lending an air of simplistic elegance to the watch. It was only a matter of time before Oris rolled out the calibre 400 into new lines; so far, it’s appeared in the Aquis line, the Diver 65, and the Big Crown Pointer Date.
The ProPilot X Calibre 400 might be the best application of the calibre 400 yet. Oris has cleverly positioned this watch as celebrating “the joy of mechanics” first, and the aviation connection second. The brand has always had a strong point of view that’s resonated with the enthusiast community. In a press release about the watch, Oris touts its commitment to mechanical watchmaking, saying “We’re 100 percent mechanical at Oris. Not a single quartz. And certainly no smartwatches.” And they continue:
Modern technology is so smart that few of us really understand how things work. The rapid shift to AI will only increase the distance between our devices and our appreciation of how they do what they do. This is one of the many reasons people still love mechanical watches. They’re an antidote to technology’s blinding light. When you see an escapement wheel oscillating or a chronograph’s pushers initiating the steady advance of a central seconds hand, it’s reassuringly knowable. Poetic. Joyful even.
And this is what the Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 is all about. There’s no contrived aviation connection or story about a historical occurrence with questionable authenticity. It’s just a very well-done mechanical watch. Oris doesn’t necessarily need to manufacture any marketing story here, because it manufactured a decent watch.
The dial layout is balanced and legible; it lends an entirely new personality to the ProPilot line, which historically has featured only Arabic numerals. The juxtaposition of a space-age material like titanium with a traditional-looking dial is unusual and incredibly attractive. The watch slots into the ProPilot line, but it doesn’t scream “aircraft!” in any way. You don’t have to be a diver to wear the cotton candy watches, and you certainly don’t have to be a plane nut to see the draw of the Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400. In fact, I predict the majority of buyers won’t purchase it for the aviation connection, but instead for the universal appeal of a great design with an in-house movement. Sometimes there’s not much more to say about a watch other than “they got this one right.”
Oris Divers Sixty-Five 40
Vintage-inspired dive watches have flooded the market over the last decade. Many of these modern day retro divers are from newly-founded microbrands looking to capitalize on the trend. Oris, however, is no new kid on the block.
Operating as an independent Swiss manufacturer since 1904, Oris has a rich history from which to seek internal inspiration.
When they decided to enter the neovintage dive watch segment in 2015, Oris pulled aesthetic cues from a watch they originally produced in 1965 and used that same design language to launch the Divers Sixty-Five–a model range they’ve since expanded to over 50 unique watches.
In this review we’ll take a closer look at the stainless steel 40mm blue dial variant (Oris Reference 01 733 7707 4055-07 8 20 18).
We’ll explore the positive and negative points of the lineup, try to pinpoint what has made the Oris Divers Sixty-Five such a hit for Oris and ultimately determine whether or not this is the right watch for you.
The Oris Divers Sixty-Five’s most compelling (and perhaps most polarizing) feature is its vintage “charm.” At a glance, this looks like a vintage watch. In hand, this feels like a vintage watch. Sure, it’s a modern watch built to [mostly] modern standards, but there’s a certain lo-fi quirkiness present which many will find endearing (and others will no doubt find off-putting).
My initial impressions were quite mixed on this particular watch, and we’ll see why as we dive deeper into the details. Immediately clear, however, was how comfortable this 40mm Oris Divers Sixty-Five wore on my 6.75” wrist. With 36mm and 42mm sizes also available, it should be a piece of cake for anyone to find a Divers Sixty-Five that fits well regardless of personal preference and wrist size.
The Divers Sixty-Five’s case is one area in which this piece really shines. While the design and finishing of the case is rather simple on the surface, Oris did an outstanding job with proportions that yield real world comfort.
In a world of overly thick and bulky dive watches, Oris deserves high praise for such a low-slung profile.
The midcase gently arcs downward from its midpoint toward each lug tip, allowing the watch to conform nicely to the natural curvature of most wrists. Furthermore, the midcase is remarkably thin for a dive watch, resulting in a piece that wears very flat to the wrist. The crown is unimpeded by crown guards and exceptionally easy to manipulate while setting the time and date. Not only is the crown highly functional but it looks great too, complete with signed ORIS text. In stark contrast to the understated case and crown, which go about their business in an unassuming way, the massively domed sapphire crystal shouts its merits from the rooftops. The height and shape of the domed crystal is like nothing I’ve ever seen before with sapphire glass. It truly looks like a vintage domed acrylic crystal, which is quite a feat on Oris’s part. These elements combine with the dynamic dial color to make for a watch I often find myself staring at while rotating my wrist around–playing with distortions and colors and light–all while completely forgetting to check the time.
The stainless steel bezel with black aluminum insert is fairly standard if not unremarkable. The grip offered by the bezel teeth is adequate even when wet and the unidirectional 120-click action is relatively positive with marginal backplay. While the bezel action, materials and design aren’t going to win any awards, they get the job done.
At the Oris Divers Sixty-Five ’s price point I’ve experienced several bezels that are markedly worse and fewer still that are markedly better. I can’t heap praise on anything about this bezel but it is par for the course and I’d rate it as sufficient overall.
Typically the dial and hands are where most watches establish a large portion of their identity, but this particular variant of the Divers Sixty-Five lineup is fairly straightforward and non-descript.
Especially in comparison to the original 2015 Oris Divers Sixty-Five release which featured large, retro-funky 12-3-6-9 block outlined numerals on the dial). What this particular watch lacks in a strong stylistic statement, it makes up for in visual interest thanks to the incredibly dynamic blue hue of the dial. In low light the dial can appear completely black. In bright light there’s a glossy navy depth that is mesmerizing. In overcast light, or when viewed from harsh angles, the dial can read as charcoal grey. The color-shifting illusion of this dial finish is easily one of my favorite features of this watch. Lume is present, if not a wholly disappointing. So often, vintage-inspired “aged radium” luminova doesn’t glow with the same intensity or duration as untinted lume and the Divers Sixty-Five is no exception.
Furthermore, the luminous plots on the dial are several shades darker than the hands and bezel pip.
Not only does this mismatched lume application glow at different intensities (with the dial markings never getting as bright or lasting as long as the hands and bezel pip), the lume is clearly different shades even in broad daylight.
I personally couldn’t get past this visual dissonance. It really bothered me. Poorly serviced vintage watches are often seen with this same mismatched look after sloppy watchmakers slap new replacement hands and bezel inserts onto older watches.
I get that same vibe here with the Oris Divers Sixty-Five . Not exactly the feeling you want your $2,000 Swiss timepiece to evoke as you admire it.
Oris should have matched the lume application across the entire watch or they should have stuck to pure white lume throughout. Either route would improve the watch considerably. Moving on, the date window situated at 6 o’clock is positioned well for visual symmetry and features a black base with white numerals. At this price point I’d like to see the date wheel matched to the dial color, but the date window implementation is useful overall (if not otherwise routine).
The Divers Sixty-Five’s caseback is solid stainless steel and features the watch’s basic specifications around the perimeter with the Oris logo etched prominently in the middle. A common critique of the Divers Sixty-Five line is the notated 100 meters of water resistance, however this is not a problem in my eyes. This watch features a screwdown crown and is rated to depths 2-3x deeper than most recreational divers will ever go. Unless you’re the 1% of the 1% of the population that saturation dives, this watch will confidently handle splashing around in any local body of water.
Under the solid caseback is Oris caliber 733, which is Oris’s name for the ubiquitous Sellita SW-200 automatic movement fitted with the hallmark Oris red winding rotor. Standard in many watches in the $300-3,000 price range, this base movement is a favorite among a myriad of brands for good reason.
Owners can expect relatively accurate timekeeping and reliable operation on a day to day basis. It’s also easy and cheap to service for any competent watchmaker, and replacement parts are readily accessible to ensure long term serviceability.
A well-made watch with this movement should last any owner a lifetime. At the price point of the Divers-Sixty, it could be argued that the higher grade Sellita SW-300 movement should have been used, but Oris can hardly be faulted for their movement choice here. The brushed stainless steel bracelet’s signature features are the heavy taper and vintage-inspired faux rivets. Bracelet sizing is 20mm at the endlinks and steps down dramatically to 14mm at the clasp. This taper serves to keep weight and bulk low while keeping comfort high.
Very few bracelets feature such a dramatic taper, and it took me a while to get accustomed to visually. The taper was almost too dramastic to the point of looking nearly diminutive at the clasp, but for a watch leaning so heavily on vintage styling, the Divers Sixty-Five manages to pull off the look. The clasp is standard for the price and well made. Etched ORIS, the clasp released with very nice twin triggers and the swing arms are milled out of the same 316L stainless steel used throughout. Sizing the bracelet is done with pins and collars, which is quite frankly disappointing for a watch at this price point. Screwed links should be a given for any modern watch above $500 in my personal opinion, and this cost-cutting measure cheapens the ownership experience of this watch considerably. It’s worth noting that there is no diver’s extension present, so if you do intend to use this watch for diving, you’ll need to consider swapping out the bracelet for a different strap with more reach.
My favorite thing about the Divers Sixty-Five is the wearing experience thanks to the brilliant case sizing and proportions. Few dive watches rival the comfort of this Oris on the wrist. I also thoroughly enjoy how the dynamic dial color and domed sapphire crystal play with varying light–together they combine for a mesmerizing viewing experience.
For me, the most disappointing design element of this watch has to be the mismatched lume between the dial markers, hands and bezel pip.
The Divers Sixty-Five feels amazing on wrist, the dial and crystal look incredible in shifting life, but when I actually engage with the watch for time-telling purposes I can’t see anything other than haphazard lume that leaves me with the unsettling impression of a carelessly serviced vintage watch. I love vintage-inspired watches, but there is a certain level of quality and attention to detail that I expect out of a modern timepiece. Brand heritage alone isn’t enough to justify a price premium in my eyes.
In fact, while writing this review, I found myself searching out synonyms for “unremarkable” as I ran out of different ways to say that the overall execution left me wanting.
The lume issue notwithstanding, the Divers Sixty-Five’s bezel, case finishing, bracelet construction, clasp construction, dial design, hand design and movement are all sufficient. “Sufficient” is a tough pill to swallow at the $2,000 price point when “remarkable” is available.