Category: Breitling Watches
Breitling Endurance Pro 44
One of the most successful Swiss watches of 2020, in my opinion, was the Breilting Endurance Pro. Offered in a selection of hip colors, this is an easy-to-appreciate entry-level Breitling sports watch that is perfectly suited to the times. The Breitling Endurance Pro 44 is also a collection that, for many people, can be easy to miss. Most watch collectors want mechanical versus quartz watches, and it would not be wrong to refer to the Endurance Pro as a fancy flavor of G-Shock. That isn’t what Breitling’s polished metal fanbase is into, per se. But Breitling has a response for all of that.
The “new” Breitling as under Mr. Kern’s tutelage is diversifying into more entry-level and youth-oriented access. The Endurance Pro is still a hefty chunk of change for $3,000, but it is also nearly three times cheaper than the brand’s also-new for 2020 Chronomat B01 42, which offers an entirely different but also excellent wearing experience. Breitling was always lucky to have its “Professional” line of watches in addition to its luxury base. This means that the Breitling Endurance Pro 44 could easily fit into the modern Breliting lineup at a lower price point because doing that was never uncommon for the brand. It also lets Breitling compete at an interesting price point when you can’t get a Rolex, Omega, IWC, etc., at this price point. This is TAG Heuer territory, but for a different type of client.
The Endurance Pro design formula is also dead simple. Breitling first decided to once again make use of its Breitlight material (carbon), and focus on a quartz movement. Note that while $3,000 is high for a normal Swiss Made quartz movement, the Endurance Pro does not contain a normal Swiss movement. Inside the watch is the Breitling caliber 82, which is a base ETA thermo-compensated quartz movement. This time, date, and complex chronograph movement has a quartz crystal regulation system with a sensor that measures temperatures. Changes in temperature negatively affect the ability of these already accurate movements to operate at peak levels. Able to compensate for changes in temperature normally experienced by watch movements worn on the wrist, the caliber 82 movement is accurate to around 10 seconds per year. That is compared to accuracy of about 10 seconds per month for standard quartz movements.
You’ll see the “Chronometer” label on the dial. This is also a true COSC Chronometer watch. Note that Swiss COSC has a different performance test for quartz versus mechanical watches. The test is predictable much more stringent for quartz mechanisms. Once you understand how the time and effort that went into this movement is akin to that of a traditional mechanical watch, you not only better understand the value proposition, but you also appreciate how this can truly be a professional’s watch.
The Breitling Endurance Pro 44 is the second generation of this product concept, which actually predated Mr. Kern’s management of the brand. In 2017, Breitling introduced the Colt Skyracer (aBlogtoWatch hands-on here), which offered a Breitlight case, three-hand SuperQuartz movement, and a $2,000 price point. With the 2020 Endurance Pro, Breitling keeps the core vibe of the entry-level sport watch theme but tries to pull the design language more into the current collection. The Colt Skyracer was a pilot-style watch inspired by the world of sport flying. The Endurance Pro looks more like a triathlete watch meant for a variety of purposes for people who regularly time intervals or events.
The Endurance Pro name is new but the dial and hands are basically from the current generation Aerospace Evo (which came out around 2013). Breitling actually fixed a problem with that design on the Endurance Pro, in that the hands were polished and should have been matte-finished. Otherwise the Endurance Pro, is an all-analog chronograph version of the Aerospace Evo, with a Breitlight carbon case. Note that the Breitling Emergency II watch is also part of this same design family.
Little design refinements on the Breitling Endurance Pro 44 help make it a distinct watch from its predecessors. For example, the flange ring has a pulsometer scale on it —removing the tendency for sport watch makers to tackily apply obsolescent tachymeter scales. A pulsometer allows you to measure your pulse while operating the chronograph and counting some heartbeats. Since plenty of Breitling Endurance Pro wears will use this as a sports watch, it is entirely conceivable that a pulsometer will be relevant once in a while, and helps make the text on the dial feel more practical and less arbitrary.
Under 65 grams on the wrist, the Endurance Pro is, indeed, a lightweight watch — and it isn’t that small, either. Wearing it is great since it is so light and comfortable. The case is about 44mm-wide and 14mm-thick with a 53mm lug-to-lug distance. The case is water-resistant to 100 meters, and over the dial is a flat AR-coated sapphire crystal. Around the bezel is a bi-directional rotating navigation bezel. These look cool, but I would have preferred a 60-minute scale on the smooth-to-the-touch rotating black carbon bezel.
This particular version of the Breitling Endurance Pro 44 is the white and black (Oreo cookie or Star Wars Storm Trooper, depending on your mood) reference X82310A71B1S1. While I have a feeling more colors will be coming soon, the launch assortment of Endurance Pro models includes black and yellow, dark blue, orange, red, and the pictured white model flavors of the watch. To add to the Star Warsy-ness of it, when the chronograph is operating, I imagine that the chronograph hands are dueling red lightsabers. Speaking of the dial, Breitling keeps even its entry-level watch looking sharp with attractively finished surfaces and applied elements like some of the hour markers. Some purists will probably not forgive Breitling for having the chronograph subdials cut off the hour markers so much.
The Breitling-branded rubber strap that comes with the Breitling Endurance Pro 44 is of typical high Breitling strap quality and is given a buckle with two holes for the strap excess, which makes it wear better on the wrist. The strap buckle is also made out of the same carbon Breitlight material as the case, which is a nice touch.
Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter
Today marks an important milestone for Breitling as it launches the next generation of Aerospace. With the outgoing Aerospace Evo stock levels in flux for the past few years, it has been uncertain whether the analog-digital Grade 2 titanium watch would stay. Breitling’s new 43mm Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter settles the debate and celebrates 25 years since the first nonstop global balloon flight in 1999. The smoky orange dial of this special edition matches the balloon’s gondola, with the Orbiter insignia flanking the right of the central pinion. Can the new Aerospace soar above the clouds, or will it deflate and come crashing to the ground? Let’s find out.
The Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter is a firm favorite at Fratello. Since 1985, the ana-digi watch has graced the wrists of pilots and enthusiasts of all generations. For a while, though, it seemed like the popular Swiss watch was on its way out. Breitling’s focus on heritage designs and mechanical ingenuity put the Aerospace on thin ice as an outlier to the brand’s direction. A few years ago, you would have struggled to find the 2013-introduced Aerospace Evo in any Breitling boutique or authorized dealer. While stocks replenished, it was hard to shake the feeling that the 11-year-old model had begun to lose touch with modern smartwatches. The new Aerospace B70 radically refreshes the collection to align it with Breitling’s Professional family.
Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter
While this edition is specifically a tribute to the 1999 global balloon flight — more on that soon — the inaugural B70 model shapes the Aerospace’s future. So, what is significant about the B70? First, it’s worth explaining how the Breitling Aerospace has operated since its creation. The quartz timepiece, and later thermo-compensated SuperQuartz in 2001, features dual LCD screens on the dial with analog hour and minute hands. The Super-LumiNova-equipped hands can be synchronized or set independently from the digital display, providing a tremendous dual-time function. From 2007, the Aerospace used the Breitling caliber 79, which started life as an ETA 988.352. This COSC-certified chronometer maintains an accuracy of ±10 seconds per year and a three-to-four-year battery life. More than that, there is a programmable countdown timer, chronograph, alarm, four-year calendar, minute repeater, UTC, and backlight. All these functions are controllable via the single crown. The Evo, which has been in production since 2013, is the last generation to use the Breitling 79 movement. Considering the B79’s valiant 17-year run, 2024 seems like a reasonable year to refresh the movement. The new B70 is a manufacture caliber co-developed with MMT. Powering the new Aerospace, the B70 is a thermo-compensated SuperQuartz COSC-certified chronometer with analog and digital displays — very much in keeping with the Aerospace DNA. The key new features are the 1/100th-of-a-second chronograph (with split-time and flyback functions), an electronic tachymeter, and a lap timer. The eagle-eyed among you will have noticed the three integrated pushers for controlling the watch’s functions. That’s right; the new Aerospace no longer relies solely on its rotating crown with integrated push-piece to activate its functions. While it’s a shame to lose the intuitive single-crown control, the B70’s recessed pushers sit almost flush within the sculpted lugs.
Breitling Orbiter 3 nonstop global balloon flight
I have told this story before, but it’s worth reiterating the Breitling Orbiter 3’s incredible feat. In March 1999, Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones circumnavigated the globe in the first successful round-the-world flight in the Breitling Orbiter 3 balloon. It is still the most prolonged time an aircraft has remained airborne without stopping. However, Piccard and Jones didn’t make the trip in 80 days, as novelized by Jules Verne, but in 19 days, 21 hours, and 47 minutes. Breitling was growing impatient with the failure of Orbiter 1 and 2 and proclaimed that the Orbiter 3 would be the last attempt to be sponsored by the Swiss watch brand. Thankfully, the third time, as it often is, was the charm. The Breitling team was not alone in this global record attempt. Cable & Wireless sponsored a team with a head start and surpassed the distance previously set by the Breitling Orbiter 2. However, both sides had to contend with adverse weather and maneuver around restricted airspace over China and Yemen. The Cable & Wireless team was still ahead and progressing well but elected to rely solely on solar power without any backup batteries.
A fateful decision
The extra power storage would’ve increased weight and energy consumption. Nearing the Pacific Ocean, the balloon was positioned with the Sun on the wrong side of the solar panel. Quickly losing power, the Cable & Wireless team ascended to catch the light and compensate. It was a fateful decision because ice gathered on the balloon during the ascent and added too much mass. Along with the dwindling power, the aircraft descended and eventually ditched into the ocean. With just enough time for the mayday call, the pilots were soon rescued. With the main competition out of the race, you would’ve thought Piccard and Jones would relax in their efforts. Hardly. Knowing the same fate could await them, the level of fear was rising. What they had in their favor were the Breitling Emergency watches with orange dials strapped to their wrists. The beacon at the lower half of the case could be unscrewed and pulled for a distress signal to pulse to the nearest air and rescue forces if necessary.
Speeds of up to 100mph
They stayed airborne and continued the journey to Egypt, their finish line. The jet stream was favorable and helped them reach 100mph while also assisting with fuel efficiency. After nearly 20 days and 45,633km, Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones touched down in the Sahara Desert. As they waited seven hours to be picked up, they noticed their last propane tank, not jettisoned, had only four inches of fuel left. Perfect timing or blind luck? You decide. But I think the truth is that you don’t break records of this magnitude without the rub of the green.The balloon’s gondola is now on display at the Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center National Air and Space Museum in Chantilly, Virginia. There is also a fantastic documentary on YouTube, via Bertrand Piccard’s account, that is worth watching. It covers this flight with onboard, hand-held cameras and footage shot by the pilots.
Back to the Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter
Breitling was not content with just updating the Aerospace’s movement. The brand has also sculpted and refined the case. I mention the recesses on the case sides already as they’re a dramatic diversion from all previous references. The bidirectional bezel has also been reworked and no longer has numerals in five-minute increments in a digitized typeface. Instead, it now only includes dashes on the main surface with numerals on the rider tabs at 15, 30, and 45 minutes. These numerals are elongated and more mature, befitting of the Aerospace’s grown-up refresh. Speaking of numerals, the ones on the dial align better with the style of the Endurance Pro. This alteration may be hard to spot at first. But looking at the 8, you may spot the B70’s wider bottom half versus the straight 8 on the Evo. The 3, 6, and 9 numerals are also reminiscent of the Endurance Pro. Thankfully, the Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter showcases these indices in their entirety, unlike the Endurance Pro, on which the sub-dials bite into them. Breitling is molding the Aerospace B70 to align with the Professional collection, where the Endurance Pro also resides. Therefore, the venerable “wings & anchor” logo stays on the dial, albeit replacing the 12 above the LCD screens rather than in between. This fan-favorite emblem, introduced in 1984, is now only found within the Professional family, whether rightly or wrongly. As for the case back, the Aerospace B70 contains a segment of the Orbiter 3 balloon visible through the exhibition window. Within the window is the mission logo with the inscription “First non-stop flight around the world 25th anniversary” running the circumference.
Initial impressions and pricing
As a longtime Aerospace fan, this announcement excited me, as my Fratello colleagues can attest. I will try to temper my enthusiasm; for now, this model is a tribute to the Orbiter 3 flight. However, knowing the brand, this execution will likely form the basis for future Aerospace models. The orange-to-black gradient dial of the Orbiter edition is quite striking. It’s not quite the color for me, but it makes sense to reference the gondola’s paint scheme and the orange-dial Breitling Emergency worn by the pilots. I must go hands-on with the B70 to adapt to its new layout and functionality. But aesthetically, I do appreciate the more prominent digital display. However, the movement’s increased functionality does drop the battery life to approximately two years from the B79’s four years. Despite the more complex case, the Aerospace still achieves a 100m depth rating. Yet, the “living piece of history” does increase the case thickness from 10.8mm to 12.95mm. Perhaps future Aerospace B70s will forego the unique window and instead opt for a regular titanium case back, reducing the thickness. The bidirectional bezel is also a departure from the Evo but in line with the Endurance Pro. I don’t mind the influences from the Endurance Pro as they provide continuity within the range.
The Breitling Navitimer
Among the enthusiast community, the exact date is up for debate – but according to Breitling, 2022 marks the 70th anniversary of the Navitimer. And the brand is celebrating with not a single re-edition, but an entire range of Navitimers coming in 46mm, 43mm, 41mm, in stainless steel, and red gold. And if the range of sizes doesn’t offer enough variety, then consider that there are 13 different dials to choose from.
The Breitling Navitimer is one of Breitling’s most celebrated designs. Willy Breitling dreamed up the watch in the early ’50s to directly aid pilots in the cockpit. He called it the Navigation Timer, or “Navtimer.” The watch featured a rotating slide rule on the bezel that worked in conjunction with the chronograph to make cockpit calculations easier. The watch caught on big-time. It was so popular with aviators that the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association teamed up with Breitling to release a branded design that featured the company’s winged crest at 12 o’clock. It was during the ’50s that civilian aviation proliferated, and weekend warrior pilots, along with professional and military pilots, all needed a watch. The Breitling Navitimer became commonplace with the aviation set. It was considered a worthy tool.
Scott Carpenter approached Breitling Navitimer about modifying the Navitimer for 24-hour time for spacefaring applications in the early ’60s, and based on the design of the Navitimer, the Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute was born. Beyond professionals like Carpenter, the watch became popular with celebrities like Miles Davis, Serge Gainsbourg, Jim Clark, and Graham Hill, as well.
The crop of 2022 Breitling Navitimer retain all the elements from the Navitimers of mid-century years, like the circular slide rule, baton indexes, trio of chronograph counters, and a notched bezel. The most prominent change is inside, with the inclusion of Breitling’s COSC-certified Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01. It’s a column wheel chronograph that boasts a healthy 70-hour power reserve. There’s a new date function, as well, present at the 6 o’clock position
The Breitling Navitimer ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition released at Baselworld 2019 got collectors excited. It was an accurate re-edition; a proper way to honor a watch with such a strong legacy. It meant that it was only a matter of time before we saw an update to the Navitimer collection.
The slide rule is now flattened out and the crystal domed, which visually creates a more compact profile of the watch. But let’s be clear here: Breitling didn’t make the cases any smaller. The original Navitimer was executed with a 40mm case. This new Navitimer tops out at 46mm. For those who want to stay as close to the original as possible, the 41mm variant is the closest we’re going to get. They all boast the Caliber 01, and they’re all water-resistant to 30 meters.
Since there are so many dial choices, case sizes, and metals available, let’s break ’em down. If you’re familiar with Breitling, then you’re most likely familiar with the Navitimer. But for a long time it was positioned as a watch exclusively for pilots and astronauts. With this new line, Breitling is throwing the doors open to anyone. No one uses a slide rule in the cockpit anymore, anyway. This is the Breitling Navitimer that’s attractive to folks who have never handled an airplane’s stick and rudder before. It’s less serious and more focused on fun in 2022. I doubt they would have produced a mint green dial for the Navitimer in 1952, but in 2022, it’s a good look.
Universal Genève To Relaunch Under The Same Ownership As Breitling
While many once-defunct watch brands have relaunched over the past decade-plus, one name in particular has remained the white whale: Universal Genève. Today, a revival that’s been dreamed of for years has become reality, as Universal Geneve is being reborn. Partners Group, the ownership group behind Breitling, has announced its acquisition of Universal Genève from Stelux Holdings, the Hong Kong holding company that has owned the brand since 1989.
“As excited as we are, we are also fully aware of the task at hand and the profound heritage we are set to uphold,” said Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling.
“Universal Genève was once hailed as the couturier of watchmaking, renowned for its in-house movements and mythical models. It is a brand that watch enthusiasts have dreamed of seeing make a permanent comeback,” added Alfred Gantner, Co-Founder of Partners Group and Chairman of Breitling’s board. Partners Group is a private investment firm based in Zurich and is the largest shareholder in Breitling. Ownership in Breitling first changed hands in 2017 when the Schneider family sold a majority stake to CVC Capital Partners. In 2022, Partners Group increased its stake in Breitling replica watch to become the brand’s largest shareholder, in a deal that Bloomberg reported valued the watchmaker at $4.5 billion. At the time, it was reported that there were plans to take Breitling replica watch public on the Swiss Stock Exchange in 2027.
Universal Geneve’s history dates to 1894, when it was founded in Le Locle, Switzerland, as Universal Watch. Soon, it opened a branch in Geneva, officially changing its name to Universal Geneve in the 1930s. By then, the brand had become an industry leader with its chronographs, highlighted by the Compax line. By the 1940s, the Henri Stern Agency, distributor of Patek Philippe in the United States, began distributing Universal Genève, an endorsement of the brand’s quality. At the time, UG’s headquarters sat between Rolex and Patek in Geneva. Through the 1950s and ’60s, Universal Genève continued to sit at the cutting edge of watches. It introduced a micro-rotor automatic movement, then in 1954 launched the Polerouter (nèe Polarouter), one of the first designs from a promising young designer named Gérald Genta.
But like so many other Swiss watch brands, the so-called Breitling replica watch Quartz Crisis spelled the eventual collapse of the proud manufacturer. It partnered with Bulova and began to use its tuning fork technology before pursuing quartz. But the Universal Geneve of the 1970s and ’80s was far from the brand that had once produced watches to compete with Rolex, Heuer, and others.
In 1989, Stelux Holdings, a Hong Kong-based investment holding company, acquired Universal Genève. Since then, the brand has made a couple of ill-fated attempts at a relaunch, first for the brand’s 100th anniversary in 1994 and then again in 2005. While the brand still makes watches today, they’re nothing like the watches from the golden age of the 1940s–1960s. Still, collectors have kept the interest in Universal Geneve alive over the years, sharing research, scholarship, and enthusiasm for the vintage brand across forums, social media, and, of course, on this very site.
Rumors of business people or enthusiasts trying to acquire Universal Genève have been frequent over the years, but they never seemed to get very far. These rumors usually hinted that Stelux seemed content with the status quo and had no interest in selling. Now, Breitling replica watch leadership, led by CEO Georges Kern, will be in charge of one of the most anticipated brand revivals in the Swiss watch industry.
Kern’s experience should prove valuable. Since taking the helm at Breitling in 2017, sales have surged, and it’s now one of the 10 largest Swiss brands by revenue. In 2022, sales approached $1 billion, increasing about 40 percent year-over-year according to Morgan Stanley. Breitling’s success is attributable to its focus on simplifying its product line, producing watches in more modest sizes, and a focus on its historically important models. This marketing and aesthetic overhaul is complemented by Breitling’s continued technical innovation, illustrated with developments like the manufacture caliber B01 chronograph. He’ll look to use a similar formula for the relaunch of Universal Genève.
“Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavor—it is a meticulous labor of love that we anticipate will unfold over the coming years. A dedicated team will be brought on board to allow Breitling and Universal Genève to operate as separate maisons,” Kern said.
Universal Genève’s back catalog is replete with models loved by enthusiasts. From the 1940s Tri-Compax to the Polerouters of the 1950s and ’60s and the sporty “Nina Rindt” or “Eric Clapton” of the ’60s, each has its own community of loyalists. Personally, they’re some of my favorite vintage watches. Somehow, I snuck into the world of watches through the side door – I knew what a Ninda Rindt Compax was before I knew what a Paul Newman was, and it’s always been one of my favorite vintage chronographs. From there, the love has grown to older Tri-Compaxes, the Polerouter, even the simple “Ferrovie dello Stato.”
A proper revival of Universal Genève is a massive opportunity for Partners Group and Breitling. Its vintage watches are mentioned alongside Rolex, Omega, Heuer, and Breitling replica watch as some of the best and most representative of watchmaking’s golden mid-century era.
The new ownership seems to understand this, along with the importance and history of Universal Genève, mentioning its mid-century designs, in-house calibers, and history of innovation. I’m told the revival will be considered and deliberate, staying faithful to UG’s rich heritage. There will be a focus on developing in-house movements and paying tribute to UG’s history, while still establishing a modern brand. This is the “modern retro” formula that has worked so well for Breitling. I think it’s actually fitting that two of the most historically important makers of chronographs, Breitling and Universal Genève, would end up in the same ownership group.
Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Highlands
After expanding its Top Time B21 Classic Cars collection, Breitling now reveals the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Highlands Collection, its brand-new capsule lineup.
Conceptualized in the ‘50s, the watchmaker’s original SuperOcean diver timepiece was developed to look chic on wrists whether on land or sea. With the new Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Highlands Collection, Breitling looks to recreate the wistful mood as experienced in the Scottish Highlands.
Available in blue, green, mustard, and brown colored dials, the watches are all attired in a 38mm stainless steel case with an 18k red gold bezel. The bezels also come outfitted with complementing ceramic inserts that echo their respective dial colors. Its triangular hour markers and handset boast a mid-century aesthetic that nods to its vintage predecessor, all filled with Super-LumiNova to ensure readability in the dark.
Capable of withstanding up to 100 meters underwater, the new references are powered by Breitling’s in-house Caliber 10, a COSC-certified self-winding mechanical movement with up to 42 hours of power reserve. Every color variant is offered with an Ocean Classic stainless steel bracelet, alongside an additional silk and wool-blend fabric strap that’s inspired by tweed.
Breitling has had a truly strong showing this year. Just look at the Breitling Top Time Limited Edition released a few weeks back, and you can see that they really have the vintage-inspired aesthetic nailed down. With the new Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Highlands Collection, Breitling has taken the Superocean into some gnarly waves with a throwback design tailor-made for the beach or The Beach Boys.
With this watch, Breitling has maintained the general design from the existing Heritage Superocean line, but infused some real 1950s and ’60s heritage into it. One of the first things that popped out to me was the concave bezel. This may sound crazy, but it almost gives off a 50s B-movie flying saucer vibe and adds a real flair to the retro design. On top of that is the completely re-designed marker set on the dial. Gone are the sticks and small lume pips. Here, rather, we have some very groovy overlaid stick and lume-filled circular markers at 12, three, six, and nine o’clock. The hash marks on the minute track have been elongated which I think really brings the whole design together. Always a sucker for typography, the numerals have also been given a more throwback styling, including the much-beloved flat four.
These Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Highlands watches may be limited in one sense or another, but they really show a recognition, on the part of the brand, of what consumers are looking for in a no-nonsense dive watch with vintage appeal, built like a modern watch. The rainbow graduations on the limited edition may seem like a lot, and they probably are, but what’s wrong with having a little fun? In a world where dive watches, bezels, and dials have become quite homogenous, Breitling has delivered a very unique offering. The watches themselves have nailed the mid-century design motif, and in doing so, are quite compelling in more ways than one.
Reviewing the Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 42
The new Breitling Chronomat is an all-purpose sports watch that recalls the return of mechanical timekeeping in the 1980s and Breitling’s role as a chronograph pioneer. The unique Rouleaux bracelet brings a trendy retro look to the wrist, while modern manufacture Caliber 01 points the way toward the future. We review it in this feature from our March-April 2021 issue.
When Breitling relaunched the Reviewing the Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 42 in 1984, it sent a clear signal — it heralded the return of the mechanical watch, which had all but disappeared during the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s. Breitling had already used the name “Chronomat” in the 1940s, as a combination of “chronograph” for the stopwatch function and “mathematics” for the slide rule, which would later become the hallmark of the Navitimer. But in 1984, the term gained additional meaning: the first two syllables continued to refer to “chronograph” for the stop-time function, but now the third syllable alluded to “automatic” for the mechanical automatic movement that drove the timepiece, at a time when quartz watches were the order of the day. Originally, Valjoux Caliber 7750, which had been launched in 1973 and whose production was later resumed by ETA, provided the power. The version used by Breitling had undergone various specific modifications.
Another quarter of a century would pass before Breitling launched its own chronograph movement. Caliber 01 premiered in 2009 inside the prestigious Chronomat. This robust caliber is almost taken for granted nowadays and is hard at work, in various modifications, inside numerous Breitling chronographs, so we’d like to remind our readers of a few of its remarkable qualities.
Caliber 01 is a column-wheel chronograph with vertical coupling. Thanks to the modern technologies used in the production of contemporary column wheels, fabricating them is a much less daunting task than it used to be. Vertical coupling ensures a clean start for the stopwatch function without the notorious initial shudder of the elapsed-seconds hand. Unlike conventional systems with independent counters for the elapsed hours, here the coupling itself creates the connection to the counters for elapsed seconds, minutes and hours. The patented self-centering system of the heart lever for the zero-return function is also innovative. This mechanism also ensures that the chronograph cannot be damaged by faulty operation, for example, by triggering the zero-return command without first stopping the chronograph. The calendar mechanism is similarly secured against mishandling. It is designed so that the user can reset the date at any time of the day or night without damaging the mechanism. The basis for this is a nearly instantaneous date change: our test watch automatically advanced to the new date at approximately three minutes before midnight. With an eye toward future GMT and world-time models, the basic construction of the date display supports the option of resetting the date backward via the hand-setting function.
Caliber 01 inside the Chronomat not only offers 70 hours of power reserve, which is now considered state-of-the-art in modern calibers, but has also earned a chronometer certificate, as is usual for all Breitling watches. Visible through a pane of sapphire crystal in the case’s screw-down back, Caliber 01 kept time in our test watch for days and weeks with almost no deviation, regardless of whether the mainspring was fully wound or already somewhat slackened and also regardless of whether the chronograph was switched on or off.
The facade is made up of a 42.94-mm-diameter and 15.23-mm-high case of solid stainless steel with a rotating bezel that clicks into place in half-minute increments and can only be rotated counterclockwise. This feature — along with pressure resistance to 20 bar (200 meters) and a screw-down onion-shaped crown — qualifies the Chronomat to be a divers’ watch. The four distinctive cursors have returned from the 1980s. They not only make the bezel easy to grip and therefore secure to use, but are also interchangeable. It takes a bit of force and effort to remove and reinsert them, but if you interchange the 15- and 45-minute cursors, the rotating ring can be used as a countdown bezel. To-the-minute calibrations in the bezel’s upper section make the countdown easy to read. In the past, the Chronomat’s countdown function was used by yachtsmen. Together with the tachymeter scale on the steeply sloping flange, it can also serve its purpose for motor sports.
If you take a close look below the tachymeter scale, you will see red numerals and strokes dividing the minute into 100 increments. Connoisseurs will recognize this detail from earlier Breitling models. It can be useful for industrial timekeeping because it displays the minutes in decimal format. For example, it shows a workday as 7.75 hours instead of 7 hours and 45 minutes. In combination with the central seconds hand, an elapsed interval of 36 seconds, for example, can also be viewed as 0.6 minutes, during which time a car was driven at an average speed of 100 kilometers per hour.
The elapsed seconds are shown precisely by a slim red hand that extends exactly to the flange and ends in a kite-shaped tip filled with luminous material. As befits a chronograph pioneer, all the other hands associated with the stopwatch function also glow in the dark. The indicators for the ordinary time display, including the continually running seconds hand and the faceted hour appliqués, are similarly luminous — a welcome but rather rarely found detail.
Two oval push-pieces trigger the chronograph’s functions. Their styling has a modern look and, unlike their counterparts on previous models, they are no longer screwed down. This modern detail contrasts with the retro touch added by the integrated Rouleaux bracelet, which has returned for the first time since 1984. The rollers are elliptical cylinders with a brushed matte finish; their edges, like the connecting elements, are polished. The rollers lead to a functional double folding clasp with lateral push-pieces. The Chronomat 01 thus meets the requirements of a sporty all-rounder down to the very last detail.
Breitling Premier Top Time B21 Chronograph Tourbillon
Since its introduction in mid-2021, the Breitling Top Time Classic Cars collection has changed the Top Time’s positioning in the brand hierarchy from an entry-level, youth-oriented chronograph series, to a more refined, lifestyle-inflected upscale collection. This revised line features frequent brand collaborations, exquisite finishing, and visual nods to some of the most beloved American automobiles of all time. The Top Time’s move upmarket shows no signs of slowing in 2023, and Breitling’s latest suite of releases brings the nameplate to new heights by introducing a tourbillon to the collection for the first time ever. Although their wild new complications may take top billing, the new Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon collection (which includes the Breitling Top Time B21 Ford Mustang, Breitling Top Time B21 Shelby Cobra, and Breitling Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette) brings the Top Time series to luxe new frontiers through unique materials, refined presentation, and more subdued branding than its predecessors.
Interestingly, the watches in the new Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon collection do not all share the same case dimensions. While the Top Time B21 Shelby Cobra and Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette both opt for 44mm wide cases in sleek black ceramic, the Breitling Top Time B21 Ford Mustang’s warm bronze case measures in slightly smaller at 43mm wide. With that said, there’s little that differentiates between the two case designs in images, other than their materials. Both case styles feature a broader, more imposing version of the Top Time’s familiar midcentury-sporty case silhouette in photos, with slightly tapering attached lugs, narrow smooth bezels, and richly brushed case sides. As one might expect, Breitling fits all three watches with sapphire display casebacks, offering an unimpeded view of the movements within. Although these may be more luxe variants of the base Top Time platform, Breitling maintains the line’s sporting edge, and all three models are rated for a solid 100 meters of water resistance.
Like their standard chronograph siblings, the Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon collection features dials inspired by the beloved cars that share their names. However, these models take a subtler approach, with more muted colors and no overt automotive branding in images. All three watches share the same dial layout, with an outer tachymeter ring in black, the line’s signature “squircle”-shaped 60-minute chronograph subdial at 6 o’clock, and a matching rounded-square cutout for the tourbillon escapement and its elegantly narrow skeleton bridge at 12 o’clock. From here, each model takes the layout in a different stylistic direction. With its surrounding bronze case and matching dial hardware, the Breitling Top Time B21 Ford Mustang’s vertically brushed Highland Green dial offers a deep, classically luxe colorway in images, harmonizing the tourbillon with the rest of the dial through matching and complementary hues. Conversely, the Breitling Top Time B21 Shelby Cobra takes a more serious, muted approach in initial photos, with its desaturated navy blue brushed dial and a blacked-out tourbillon bridge. Arguably the most striking of the trio, however, is the Breitling Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette. Rather than taking on an automotive paint-inspired dial hue like its counterparts, this model instead shifts its focus to the car’s dashboard. The dial surface is rendered from a single piece of walnut burl wood, featuring a rich blend of highlights, shadows, and textures in images. Wood dials are a real rarity in the modern luxury watch landscape, but the results in photos are dynamic, nuanced, and genuinely compelling.
All three models in the Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon series utilize the Calibre B21 automatic tourbillon chronograph movement. First introduced in 2022’s Breitling Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon, Breitling developed the B21 in partnership with movement specialist La Joux-Perret. The end result is an impressively solid performer, with a 55 hour power reserve at a 28,800 bph beat rate, as well as COSC certified chronometer accuracy. On the finishing side, the Calibre B21 is crisp and modern, if unspectacular in images. Broad perlage along the mainplate is accented by vertical brushing and anglage for the upper three-quarter plate, while the engraved skeleton rotor is dominated by a matching mix of vertical brushing and anglage. As one might expect though, the tourbillon is the visual centerpiece here, thanks to its use of contrasting metals and the arcing, narrow lower tourbillon bridge. Breitling completes all three models with a faux-perforated rally-style leather deployant strap in either midnight blue or cognac brown.
Breitling Endurance Pro eComm Exclusive
Just in time for Australian Summer, Breitling has released a new set of watches that is, as they state, the “ultimate athleisure watch”. The Breitling Endurance Pro eComm Exclusive comes as part of the brand’s Professional range and is a timepiece that is not only made for athletes, but for people that love the outdoors and active lifestyles.
The Breitling Endurance Pro eComm Exclusive is essentially a luxury sports watch. Combining innovative materials with a sense of artistic style, this latest creation by the Swiss brand has high precision, vibrant colour design and the robustness to make it a hit among sporting enthusiasts.
The Breitling Endurance Pro eComm Exclusive fits perfectly into the world of sports, in which Breitling already has quite a history. In motorsport, Breitling has sponsored Bentley at Le Mans, while also having a longstanding partnership with the car brand in general. In the world of cycling, Breitling has already partnered with major competitions, such as Giro d’Italia and Tour de France along with cycling legends Fausto Coppi and Gino Bartali. Breitling has been offering timepieces with sports functions for a long time now, and the Endurance Pro is the latest to continue this tradition.
Breitling, a brand that used to be synonymous with aviation, today, stands for accessible sports. Sports such as running, cycling and swimming. High-performance activities that are not just limited to professionals but sports everyone can enjoy. In fact, there can be no better endorsement for the Breitling Endurance Pro than Tadej Pogačar.
A Slovenian cyclist, Tadej Pogačar wore a yellow Breitling Endurance Pro model during the final race of the Tour De France, in which he won. From a brand perspective, it shows Breitling’s rich history and heritage in cycling, and how Tadej Pogačar’s podium finish shows the brands return to the top in cycling.
The Breitling Endurance Pro eComm Exclusive was created using inspiration from Breitling’s vintage model; the Breitling Sprint. An iconic timepiece created in the 1970’s, the Breitling Sprint made use of a pulsometer, while also being incredibly lightweight. The integration of the pulsometer was ideal for athletes back then as they could monitor their heartbeats on the go.
The Breitling Sprint was also made from resin, which made it comfortable to wear, which is especially crucial during high-intensity activities. The Sprint models, like the Endurance Pro, were also offered in a variety of colours. This latest sports timepiece then is an evident evolution from the Sprint model, carrying much of the same characteristics while being modernised. The Breitling Endurance Pro is available in five different colours, ranging from the navy, orange, red, yellow and white. What we have on our hands today is the yellow Endurance pro model, the same one worn by Tadej Pogačar in his Tour De France win.
The Breitling Endurance Pro eComm Exclusive comes with an ultra-lightweight 44mm Breitlight case. The case along with the bezel is black, with almost a matte look and feel to it. Breitlight is Breitling’s signature material, released back in 2016. Breitlight carries some impressive statistics, such as being 3.3 times lighter than titanium and 5.8 times lighter than stainless steel. While also being nonmagnetic, thermally stable and hypoallergenic. It doesn’t stop there, however. Breitlight also has a high resistance to scratches, traction and corrosion. Being extremely lightweight helps the wearability of this watch. In fact, the rubber straps would almost weigh more than the case itself. The only drawback from the casing on the Endurance Pro is that it only comes with a water resistance of 100m (10bar). Breitling should have designed it to be at least 200-300m, so athletes can wear it during water sports, knowing that it won’t affect the watch. The bezel features a tachymeter scale integrated alongside a compass with the four cardinal points (N, E, S, W) shown. The Breitling Endurance Pro eComm Exclusive can be used as a sun compass. To do this varies on which hemisphere you are on. In the Northern Hemisphere, point the hour hand precisely towards the sun. Now on the watch dial, the point located midway between current hour and 12 o’clock indicates South, with North being exact opposite direction. The same procedure is used for Southern Hemisphere, however North will be indicated first with South being directly opposite. Since the Endurance Pro is targeted as an outdoor’s watch, the compass is a useful feature, something that can be quite helpful when hiking in the mountains.
When you first hold the Breitling Endurance Pro, you’ll notice almost immediately how light the watch is. At approximately 65 grams, this timepiece is incredibly lightweight. As we mentioned already, when playing sports or doing physical activities, this is an absolute bonus. I wore the Breitling Endurance Pro eComm Exclusive out to the driving range, and the lightness of the watch made it so comfortable to wear during the gruelling swings I put it through.
The fact that this is also a quartz timepiece can be a deterrent for some watch buyers. However, the Endurance Pro is no ordinary quartz, with Breitling’s SuperQuartz making this a highly precise timepiece. With the Endurance Pro also being extremely lightweight and available in some exciting and vibrant colours, this is a timepiece that is coming from a luxury brand with a rich history, making the Breitling Endurance Pro occupy a unique position among sports watches.
Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36
Breitling has introduced an updated Avenger collection of pilot-inspired watches. Dating to the early 2000s, the Avenger collection has been scaled down and simplifed to make for a sleek update. The Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 collection includes the Automatic 42, GMT 44, and the B01 Chronograph 44 – the chronograph uses Breitling’s manufacture caliber 01. While the new collection maintains the aviation inspiration and rugged profile of the Avenger, the updates align the Avenger with other updates we’ve seen across Breitling’s catalog.
Younger than many of Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 other collections, the Avenger is a bit of a modern mash-up of everything that makes Breitling Breitling. The adjectives practically write themselves: big, bold, rugged, aviation-inspired, tool. The tweaks to the case, dial, and profile of the Avenger make it a bit more streamlined and contemporary. Gone are the big winged Breitling logo, and Arabic numerals, replaced with the simple stencil “B” and baton markers. The stainless steel case of the GMT and chronograph models measure 44mm, while the three-hander automatic measures 42mm. All are a downsize compared to the previous collection. Additionally, the case offers more detail and finishing, with bevels on the lugs and polished details on the tabs of the rotating bezel.
The Avenger collection has aviation inspiration all over it, and with that the chronograph remains the most important model of the collection. The updated Avenger B01 Chronograph 44 measures 44mm by 15.2mm (53mm lug-to-lug), using the manufacturer’s caliber B01, a COSC-certified, column wheel, vertical clutch movement with 70-hour power reserve. The Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 manufacture movement represents a technical leap forward for the Avenger chronograph. It’s still a big watch that won’t be for everyone, but that’s what we expect – even ask – of Breitling. And with downsized offerings in other corners of the catalog, this keeps the Avenger true to its original purpose. The Avenger Chronograph 44 is offered with a steel bracelet or military leather strap and four dial colors: blue, green, black, or sand. On a strap
Breitling Endurance Pro Hiroshima Toyo Carp Carp Girl’s Limited
To celebrate the first anniversary of Breitling Boutique Hiroshima, Breitling is releasing two limited edition Breitling Endurance Pro models. Based on the same model that uses the carp color red, it features the characters “Carp Boy” and “Carp Girl” of the Hiroshima Toyo Carp, a professional baseball team that has been loved and shined as a civic baseball team in Hiroshima. The former will be limited to 100 pieces, and the latter will be limited to 25 pieces.
Available at Breitling.com, Breitling Boutique Hiroshima, and authorized Breitling retailers (Tomiya Mecha Museum Store, Tomiya Kurashiki Store) operated by Tomiya Corporation, which operates the store.
The Breitling Endurance Pro Hiroshima Toyo Carp Carp uses the ultra-lightweight material Breitlight(R) for its 44 mm diameter case. It is only 1/3 the weight of titanium. Inside, it is equipped with a temperature-compensated Super Quartz (TM) movement, which is 10 times more accurate than conventional quartz. Not only is it comfortable to wear and has high precision, it is also fashionable. Available in a variety of colors, this item will look great even when worn on a daily basis. The “Hiroshima model” that will be released this time features the team logo at the 4 o’clock position on the dial, and the case back is engraved with Carp Boy, who has been an active Carp character since 1975. It is also engraved that it is a limited edition of 100 pieces Opened on November 22, 2022 as a flagship store in the Chugoku region. You can experience modern-retro Breitling products and their worldview in a deep one-floor space. Boasting an overwhelming selection of up to approximately 180 items, the boutique is also the first to display the latest and limited edition models. You will be welcomed by a Breitling specialist (authorized salesperson) who is both knowledgeable and passionate.
A professional baseball team formed in 1950. It is a rare entity that has a strong image of a citizen’s baseball team because it has continued to be loved and supported by fans in its hometown of Hiroshima. Red, the team color, has a tradition that dates back to 1958 when it was used on the uniforms. Carp Boy is also the oldest character of a professional baseball team. The catchphrase for the 2023 season set by coach Takahiro Arai is “Gagagaga Mushara.” This is a powerful message that echoes the image of a carp, a fish that climbs a waterfall.
breitling
Breitling Endurance Pro Hiroshima Toyo Carp Carp , founded in 1884, is a leading Swiss watch manufacturer. The innovative company that invented the modern chronograph and pioneered the navigation tool watch. Today, the casual, inclusive and
sustainable luxury brand continues to break new ground with more than 150 industrial loft-inspired stores around the world. Breitling’s collection explores a yearning for the sky, land and sea, and follows the brand’s established modern-retro style. All movements are COSC-certified chronometers, a testament to their exceptional quality, and Breitling is one of the few independent watchmakers to produce manufacture calibers. Breitling is a company with a long history that is at the same time at the forefront of its time, combining
Watch manufacturer Breitling Endurance Pro Hiroshima Toyo Carp Carp will release a limited edition model in collaboration with Hiroshima Carp.The Hiroshima store is located on Namiki Dori, and the Carp limited model was created to commemorate the store’s 1st anniversary.